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Introduction The Panzerjager I 4.7cm PaK(t) Early Production was a relatively simple conversion from a Panzer I Ausf.B. The turret was replaced with a Czech made 4.7cm PaK(t) and a simple shield added. At the time they were produced in 1939-40, this actually made them more powerful than the Pz.Kpfw. III's then in service. Approximately 132 were manufactured.
Kit Contents The kit contents consist of none of the large Dragon box-sized sprues were used to, instead we're supplied with fifteen medium-sized sprues, of which two are in transparent plastic, two small ones, a photo-etched fret, set of flat brass rings, one bag of Magic Track links, a separate lower hull and a decal sheet.
Everything is up to modern Dragon standards in terms of moulding, as you'd expect of course, that is, no flash, sharp detail and no nasty ejector-pin marks where they're likely to show.
If you're familiar with the Dragon Panzer 1 kits then this one will hold no surprises for you during construction...unlike the missing wheels in the last Dragon Panzer I kit. Construction begins with the lower hull and the suspension. For such a small model, the suspension on these things is remarkably awkward, probably as a consequence of Dragon trying to offer more in terms of detail. The problem is in trying to make sure everything is lined up properly before final fixing. Although it looks simple, you can save yourself loads of heartache by building yourself a small jig from some plastic strip, use it and allow the suspension to dry thoroughly before continuing with the build. Yeah I know...experience talking here....I'll use one myself next time I build one of these!
For better detail, Dragon have included a small bag of brass rings that fit either side of the road wheels to create the proper profile. They've done this with all of their Panzer I kits, and it works well, although again be sparing with the superglue when fixing these, as you've not much space to work with, and a blob or two of superglue doesn't look nice under paint. Once you've the running gear in place, sans tracks, the lower hull is more or less complete, apart from some long photo-etched strips along the lip of the fender on either side. Each of these fenders is moulded integrally with the lower hull, and you have to fix this PE strip, it can't really be left off as it's not offered as a replacement or upgrade to plastic detail, it's supplied as a necessary part. The front and rear mudguards are supplied as separate parts, so you have the option of positioning these in place or raised, or even leaving them off completely to represent a vehicle that's seen some action.
Once the lower hull is complete, then the rear wall is fixed, the detail on which includes a very ice photo-etched heatshield around the exhaust. Then it's on to that lovely almost full interior!
There's no engine, but we are offered a fully detailed driver's compartment with transmission, driver's seat, controls, rear bulkhead and three ammo bins. Each of the ammo bins is supplied with a separate lid, which of course can be displayed opened or closed. If left open then the two smaller bins have a full load inside, whilst the larger one has some rounds missing which can be fully or partially filled with separate rounds that are supplied. At least that way you're unlikely to have exactly the same arrangement as everybody else....surprisingly the separate rounds actually fit in the rack too!
Moving on to the hull roof and superstructure, this is supplied as one piece, minus the engine deck, onto which detail such as the driver's dash and armoured vision ports are fitted. The armoured vision ports are supplied almost totally as clear plastic parts, and can be made theoretically to work. Apart from the fact that clear plastic parts such as these bug the hell out of me, because I can never see the seam to clean them up until after they're painted, I also never seem to be able to get them working properly, and why would I anyway? I always end up cementing them in the position I want...which is perhaps the point, although I tend to equate such features with 'working recoil'.
The engine deck structure is supplied as a one-piece slide moulded part, onto which a detailed fascia is fixed. Again, we're offered some very nice photo-etched detail in the form of grills, and also a very nice mesh stowage basket for the rear of the deck as an optional part. All the engine access hatches are supplied as separate parts should you wish to fit an aftermarket engine.
All the on-vehicle tools etc., are supplied with moulded on clamps, with both fenders having multiple locating holes to fix them, so if you want to replace the moulded clamps, be prepare to work on first removing the moulded clamps from the tools and also on filling the holes in the fenders.
Construction of the main gun is next, which I assume is brand new, although I'm willing to be corrected on that? Although the breech end of the gun is supplied in two halves, the business end is provided as one-piece slide-moulded part, so at least you don't have to remove the join on that part! The same can be said of the muzzle brake, again slide moulded so no difficult seam to remove. The entire gun is extremely well detailed, and consists of many absolutely tiny parts...just as well because the finished article is in plain view on the completed model! The three-quarter shield that surrounds the gun is also well detailed, including internal detail such as junction boxes, personal kit fixed in brackets, radio etc. Should look even better with some additional wiring etc. Lastly, the Magic Track individual links. There are a lot of modellers that seem to prefer the vinyl one-piece tracks, and I still can't understand why. Although these take a little longer, they can look so much better on a finished model! These are actually amongst some of the best Magic Track links that Dragon has produced. Very often, each link has a small pip of plastic or even a couple of ejector-pin marks that need to be removed for a perfect finish. Not so with these...they look perfectly clean, so although they're tiny and fiddly, they look as though they'll need no further preparation before assembly.
Markings-wise, there are seven schemes illustrated on the instructions, and catered for on the decal sheet. As you would expect, the majority are very early war schemes, except for two examples from Stalingrad in 1942 and 1943. See below for full details.
Conclusion I really
admire these smaller, early war vehicles. They just seem to have a wealth
of detail that can get lost on their larger late war cousins, and can
appear even more unusual because of their running gear. I've no doubt
it will be another best seller, and should build into a superb looking
model. Recommended. - Vinnie Branigan Copyright 1998-2011 Dragon Models Limited. All Rights Reserved |