Product Specifications.

6469, Flakpanzer 38(t) Sd.Kfz.140 auf (Sf) Ausf.L Gepard Smart Kit. 1/35th-scale styrene/multimedia kit containing 745 styrene parts (including eight clear), one bag of Magic Tracks, three photo-etched brass frets, two stamped etched brass parts, six water-slide decal/marking schemes and 10 pages of instructions in 19 steps.

Introduction.

As many modelers are by now aware, DML has issued several kits based on the classic Pz.Kpfw.38(t) chassis; this is the first new one to be based on the mid-engine hull, similar to that which was used on the Marder III Ausf.M and Grille Ausf.M. This latest release comes with most of the interior bits for the driver’s and engine compartments, several sub-assembly options and a nice assortment of accessories, all providing for a fairly complete kit straight from the box.

Since I have reviewed all of the DML kits based on the Pz.Kpfw.38(t) chassis, as well as their 2cm FlaK38, some of this review will be based upon what has come before; much will be new.

Angled view of the front of the hull and superstructure, with suspension components in place.

Angled view of the rear of the hull and superstructure, with suspension components in place.

Tracks.

These are the usual Magic Tracks and therefore come as individual links packed loosely in a bag. Each link has an extremely tiny pour pip between the guide horns as well as two very subtle ejector pin marks on the inner face. The fit is very good, but they will not stay together unless they are glued. The guide horns are properly hollow, and the links have a very delicate cast texture. Furthermore, they all have extremely faint casting numbers where appropriate. Although they should be provided as right- and left-hand links (the difference being the track pin configuration on the inner and outer edges), they are not. This minute detail can be easily overlooked.

Some assembled track links as well as some individual links. The drive sprocket and idler wheel towards the bottom of the image are for use on the kit; the others are spares. Note also the road-wheel.

Suspension System.

The suspension system is broken down much like most renditions from other manufacturers; this means that the road-wheels can be depicted in an articulated fashion to conform to terrain on a modeler’s display base. Planning will be needed since getting the bogies properly positioned and then getting the tracks to look right will be a bit of a challenge. The road-wheels are completely and properly detailed on both their inner and outer faces, while the return rollers have separate mounts and include manufacturer’s name on the rubber tire rims. A new set of road-wheels is also provided, with a subtly different rim configuration where the tire meets the hub. There are two styles of leaf spring bundles, while the return roller mounts are separate parts. There are now two idler wheel types included; either can be mounted in various positions due to a separate cranked axle. This will ease using individual link tracks and therefore it should not be fixed in place until the modeler is satisfied with the fit of the tracks. The drive sprockets are very nicely-detailed to include the ribs and bolt patterns seen between their inner and outer halves, while the idler wheels are also completely detailed.

Hull.

The hull is a slide-molded pan for the mid-engine type, which includes the side walls molded in place together with the belly plate. There is proper rivet and panel details on the three outer sides, as well as suspension mount details on the lower side walls; various air-flow openings for the engine compartment are also molded opened-up and in place. Like the previous Pz.Kpfw.38(t) kits, there’s molded-on detail on the inner faces of the side walls of the driver’s compartment. All this makes for a more simplified assembly process with little compromise in the detail department.

Separate inner and outer bow plates are provided as is a separate rear plate. The new outer bow plate receives tow hooks and their mounting plates, spare track links and mounting bracket. The rear plate is also provided with separate tow hooks and their mounting plates, while molded-on details includes crisp rivets and idler wheel adjustment access plates.

This view shows the hull, belly and suspension system, without drive sprockets, idler wheels, or road-wheels.

Superstructure.

This is where this kit gets interesting and also a bit complex. Each side is comprised of four styrene and one etched brass part, that when assembled, provide for the basis of all the folding armor seen around the gun compartment. It is therefore critical that these all match up. To the credit of this kit’s designers, they do so rather well, but the modeler must fit the etched brass parts with extreme care; on my sample some trimming of etched brass parts MA23 and MA24 was required. Then the rear upper plate is added; the fit is rather tight and the modeler will have to fuss with it a bit to ensure that everything lines up. I found that I had to spread the upper side sections a bit, but when I was finished, everything lined up perfectly with no trimming or filling needed.

This internal view of the fighting compartment shows the internal framework for the riveted plates of this AFV. Note the sharp detail and excellent fit of the individual panels.

The rivet detail on these parts is superb. Included on the inside surfaces are the frames to which the armor plates were attached, complete with their own rivet heads. These are all crisply-rendered with no blemishes or ejector pin marks in sight.

A multi-part exhaust pipe and muffler arrangement can then be fitted. It begins on the inside of the very well-rendered grill-work on the starboard side, and ends up on the rear plate; it is engineered to be fitted at any time during the construction sequence, and can be fitted after painting. Above it, the engine starter crank opening and mounts for a cold-weather starting device are added. The final items are etched brass straps for stowing a tow cable. The latter is supplied as slide-molded end-loops that are pre-bored to take the included metal wire cable. Strangely, there is no mention in the instructions that the cable is to be assembled and added.

Working forward, a brand-new engine deck access hatch lid arrangement is included, consisting of four separate plates, all of which can be depicted opened or closed. They have no ejector pin marks on either surface and have various hinge details delicately molded in place. The two forward sections also have opened grab handles molded in place using a slide mold, which is a very nice little touch. Some small bits are added as well as the 2cm gun depression-limiting rails.

The driver’s hood is based on a slide-molded part with excellent all-around rivet and countersunk attachment screw detail. It well-represents the cast type, has very nice texture and includes the visor’s spring molded in place. The split hatch lids are separate as is the visor itself; all can be positioned opened or closed. Up forward, the glacis plate features a separate transmission access hatch lid, and a Notek lamp with etched brass mount and lamp face; a rack for spare tracks completes the area.

The forward deck mounts the cast driver’s hood with its split hatch lids, and also has a separate transmission access hatch lid. Note the details on both surfaces of the track-guards.

Separate track-guards with separate braces are then added. These have the stamped ribs represented on both surfaces and are devoid of ejector pin marks. They are fitted with the various tools commonly seen on these Czech-manufactured AFVs, all of which feature etched brass straps, brackets and clamps. A choice of etched brass or styrene perforated stowage box is given to which is mounted a multi-part vehicle jack. The final items are a jack block and rear-facing convoy distance lamp. The latter is the proper tube type (using a clear styrene part on an etched brass mount) and is fitted on the flat plate seen just below the (also provided) external fire extinguisher.

Fighting Compartment.

Assembly of this area begins with the rear engine compartment bulkhead, to which is attached the usual separate circular access plate. There is a heating duct from the engine compartment that is provided with a separate baffle; this can be positioned opened or closed. A small multi-part box with separate lid is provided to store rounds for the 27mm flare pistol; the weapon itself is not provided. Seat pads, typical of the Marder III series of AFVs are provided as is a full radio set, racks and other electrical components; all that’s needed are wire leads and head-phones, which the modeler must source elsewhere. DML has also remembered to provide a rod antenna, rubber base and mount for the exterior; in fact TWO rod antennae and rubber bases are given, so the modeler has a spare to use elsewhere. Etched brass stowage racks are provided for four 2cm ammo boxes, two on each rear corner; each of these also has a stowed MP40 to their rear, but there are no ammo magazine storage pouches for either. Other stowage for this area includes slide-molded Gen2 gas mask cylinders that get mounted to etched brass straps.

There are a total of ten of 2cm ammunition boxes. Eight come from duplicate sprues first seen on the Aufklarungspanzer 38(t) kit, while two more come on the FlaK38 sprues. Four are placed in the above-mentioned racks, while the remaining six are placed in recesses within the gun mount. All are slide-molded for maximum detail and feature separate lids allowing them to be shown opened if the modeler wishes. In that case, there are four 20-round magazines specifically tailored to fit. Four more 20-round magazines are provided as full units; these are slide-molded and include excellent detail on the open ends, to include a 2cm round. An accessory box holding two spare 2cm gun tubes is stowed on the forward edge of the fighting compartment. It can be left opened to reveal the two 2cm gun tubes, which are also separate for fine definition. No decals are provided to mark the ammo boxes or the gun tube case.

The final items for this area are the separate, folding armor plates seen around the compartment edges. First, tiny hinges are attached to the lower sides; the plates can then be fixed in either the opened or closed position. Each is very thin, has crisp detail and exhibits no ejector pin marks. I glued the hinges in position using the raised lines provided by DML. Prior to that, I cleaned all the folding sections so I’d have them ready to use in helping to ensure the proper placement of the hinges; this worked fine and everything lined-up quite nicely. In addition, the very fine latches that were used to hold the plates in the closed position are provided in both the opened or closed configurations. Again, this is a nice bit of small detail.

The separate folding armor panels are all very crisply-molded and are commendably thin. There are no knock-out pins to deal with, due to the extensive use of separate nodes for that purpose on the edges of many parts. The four parts at the top of the image are the engine compartment hatch lids, seen from both sides.

2cm FlaK38.

The 2cm FlaK38 is provided with two all-styrene gun shield alternatives; one has cut lower corners the other does not. The shields have beveled edges for scale appearance as does the separate gunner’s sight shield (which also comes in two configurations). The latter can be replaced with the provided etched brass parts, while other etched parts can be used to replace some bits of the styrene main shields. It should be noted that photos show a few of these Flakpanzer had no shields fitted to the gun. Two different gun sight arrangements are given and there is a new etched brass armor shield fitted to the back of the gunner’s seat. Another nice touch is that there are etched brass screens to depict the mesh that was mounted on many guns to catch spent shell cases. In reality they were stretched over frames, so DML has already pre-shaped some of the relevant parts to ease assembly. However, the etched part that wraps completely around the basket is short by quite a bit, leaving the bottom open. The remaining parts will fit but I found it difficult to get them perfectly aligned, especially since when using super glue there is very little room for error; I am not totally satisfied with the result.

DML uses slide-molds where appropriate for such things as the gun tube. This allows the flash suppressor to be molded with an open bore as well as with the appropriate holes and slots already in place. Properly cleaned and painted, this will rival a comparable turned metal item. To this is added one of three different types of receiver covers so that the modeler can depict slightly different production variations. There are choices of etched brass or styrene parts to depict the shell ejector port on the gun’s side.

The gun cannot freely elevate as that would have compromised scale accuracy. DML’s designers instead provided tailored parts that will allow for four positions of the gun tube. They are zero-degrees, 20-degrees (my choice), 40-degrees and 60-degrees of elevation. When the modeler gets to this stage in construction, be sure to follow the instructions carefully so the proper parts are used.

In this image, the main components of the 2cm FlaK38 are shown. These include the gun tube, gunner’s seat, spent shell collecting basket, mount and turntable, and finally, the mount and deck for the fighting compartment.

The turntable can be constructed to allow the gun to rotate 360-degrees in azimuth, but the fit to the new gun mount was far too tight. Some file work made things right. The new mount is based on a core of two parts to which floor plates are then to be added. When completed according to the instructions, it is then added to the fighting compartment. However, this may make placing it level and at the correct height quite a balancing act, since the raised positioning lines cannot be seen. That’s how I did it, but I recommend that the floor plates be fitted after the mount is properly located; some trimming of their outer edges will then be needed to drop them all in place. Finally, there is a shaft that runs beneath this from the engine compartment to the exterior of the rear plate; this is for the starter crank. It will never fit as shown and must be cut and trimmed to the proper length before dropping the small visible section in place.

Included, but not for use, is the complete Sd.Ah.51 trailer from the original FlaK38 kit; this is because many necessary parts for the gun are on the sprues. With a bit of work and some styrene sheet, an ammunition trailer can be constructed for use elsewhere.

Interior.

The hull/fighting compartment includes a very nice multi-part transmission based on a slide-molded core, with attached driver’s hand controls. A new, shorter non-skid protective cover for the drive shaft completes this assembly. There is a multi-part driver’s seat, but his instrument panel (which attached to the area beneath his hood on Ausf.M-derived vehicles) is not provided; likewise some levers and his foot pedals are absent. A bulkhead/engine compartment firewall encloses the compartment from the rear. Do not fit this until after mounting the engine or that assembly will not fit onto its locating pins.

The main components for the interior include driver’s seat and transmission/final drive unit for the forward section. A firewall separates his compartment from the engine, fan/radiator unit and fuel tanks.

The engine compartment features fuel cells, battery box and various accessories, often enhanced with etched brass parts. A multi-part radiator and housing as well as fan are also given. The engine itself is broken down into many, many separate parts and comparing it to photographs reveals that it is visually very accurate. The instructions are a bit dodgy when it comes to the sequence in which some parts should be added; I recommend the modeler work in sub-assemblies and test fit everything prior to using glue. Just about all that is needed is for the modeler to add wiring and fuel lines for a complete appearance.

Accessories.

Aside from items provided specifically for the 2cm FlaK38, DML also provides a Gen2 sprue for the previously-mentioned gas mask cylinders. Also on the sprue are steel helmets, water bottles, mess kits, bayonets in their frogs, two styles of entrenching tools and a single pair of binoculars. Although only the gas mask cylinders are called-out for use, these other items can all be used wherever the modeler so desires.

Molding, Fit and Engineering.

Overall, I found no problems with the fit of nearly all of the major and minor components. On my particular example the fit of the hull rear plate needed care as did the fit of the gun turntable to the mount; the engine firewall should also be fitted after the engine is in place. No sink marks were found. In every case except for the above-mentioned individual link tracks, there were no visible ejector pin marks. There are the typical small nodes on many parts, which require lots of effort to clean. However, this is better than the alternative: ejector pin marks that need filling and sanding, with the obliteration of surrounding details a distinct possibility. Molding is typically crisp and all part seams are restrained and easily cleaned.

Accuracy.

Available scale drawings in the cited references indicate this kit is dimensionally very accurate. Photos also indicate that the details are very well-done. There are some unusual omissions such as the lack of a driver’s instrument panel as well as his foot pedals and some levers. While the latter cannot be seen on a completed model, the former would be visible through an opened hatch.

Instructions.

These are in the typical, and busy, line drawing style. There are many sub-steps within the main steps, but with patience and due diligence on the part of the modeler, all will be well in the end. Any pitfalls have already been noted, above.

Decals and Markings Information.

DML’s usual sub-contractor, Italy’s Cartograf, has provided water-slide decal markings for six tanks. The decals are in excellent register, have sharp detail and fine color saturation. Colors are keyed to Gunze and Testors paints. Markings for the following Flakpanzer are included:

1. 21.Panzer-Division, France 1944.
2. White 13, unidentified unit, France 1944.
3. 12.SS-Panzer-Division Hitlerjugend, France 1944.
4. White 11, 12.SS-Panzer-Division Hitlerjugend, France 1944.
5. 12.SS-Panzer-Division Hitlerjugend, France 1944.
6. 12.SS-Panzer-Division Hitlerjugend, France 1944.

Photos confirm schemes 1, 2, 3 and 5, but only visually. The specific units are unknown although it is quite probable they are correctly named; references state that these units were indeed issued Flakpanzer 38(t)s. In addition, scheme 3 is certainly from Hitlerjugend as is shown by the insignia seen in the photos of the vehicle after capture by the British. Scheme 2 should have the Tac number 13 on both the inner and outer surfaces of the fold-down armor plate, as seen in contemporary photos. One final note, the two different drive sprockets included in the box both have eight holes on the outer rim; except for photos taken of a Flakpanzer 38(t) at the BMM Praga plant and one captured vehicle, all other images show a solid rim on the drive sprocket. So, a different drive sprocket will be needed if using the provided markings schemes. A visit to the spares box, or some styrene disks and some sanding will then be in order.

Conclusion.

Altogether, this is a very well-engineered kit with some nice options. It is very well-detailed, quite accurate, and it goes together well (with judicious application of a bit of “modeler’s-sense”). There are a couple of glitches and omissions, but they are well within acceptable norms for a product fashioned by the imperfect hands of man.

Highly recommended.

- Frank V. De Sisto